Randy Jacobs, M.D. Patient Education
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Pseudofolliculitis
Pseudofolliculitis
Barbae (PFB)
DEFINITION
Pseudofolliculitis barbae is the
response of the skin to an ingrown hair. It is a foreign body response.
Pseudofolliculitis barbae is one of the most common skin complaints of black
men, occurring in 45 to 80 percent of those men who shave.
WHAT
CAUSES PFB?
Close shaving is the major cause.
Close shaving causes the formation of ingrowing hairs, and the hairs grow
backwards into the skin. As the hairs penetrate the skin, an allergic foreign
body reaction causes the bumps and pustules which are characteristic of PFB.
HOW
DOES PFB BEGIN AND PROGRESS?
Pseudofolliculitis barbae begins
in two ways. First, involves the individual pulling his skin tight and shaving
against the grain over the same area many times with a dull razor blade. A
needle-like tip on the hair is created. Once the skin is released, the tip of
the hair retracts beneath the surface of the skin. This sharp hair tip then
pierces the under side of the skin. An allergic inflammatory reaction occurs that
is seen as papules (little bumps on the skin) or pustules (papules filled with
pus). These papules or pustules can then be further irritated by shaving which
can lead to scarring. Second, a needle-like tip on the beard hair is created by shaving. This time the hair grows out normally,
however, since black hair is curved, it then grows back toward the skin and
pierces the skin to a depth of 2 to 3 mm. Again, papules or pustules are formed
that can be further irritated by shaving.
WHERE
DOES PFB OCCUR?
Pseudofolliculitis barbae occurs
most often beneath the jaw on the neck. It is usually characterized by papules
and pustules that vary in size from 2 to 4 mm. Discomfort varies from mild to severe when the hair is shaved. Hyperpigmentation (darkening of
the skin) and occasionally keloid scarring (thick, ugly scars) can occur.
Sometimes infection can also occur with staph or strep or other type of
bacteria. A similar condition set off by hairs puncturing the skin can occur on
the back of the neck, causing acne keloidalis nuchae.
HOW
IS PFB TREATED?
1. Quit shaving for three to
four weeks. This is the most effective treatment. Hairs buried in the skin
will slowly come to the surface. Hairs that have curved back into the skin will
spring free once they reach a length of about 10 mm. At first, growing a beard
may make the condition worse since existing hair tips may reenter the skin.
Given enough time the skin will heal itself. During this non shaving period, hair tips that have grown into the skin should be dislodged by
using a firm instrument, such as a needle, under the loop of hair and pulling
the hair free. Plucking the hair should be avoided since this can make the
condition worse.
2. Electric barber clippers are highly recommended if daily grooming is needed. It is best to allow the
beard to grow for a month to allow the skin to heal before beginning. Clippers
are good since they do not cut the hairs too short. Daily use prevents the
hairs from getting too long and piercing the skin. Clippers also have the advantage
of not traumatizing papules or pustules. Electric razors should be avoided
since they produce sharp hair tips that can penetrate the skin and they can
traumatize the skin.
3. Chemical hair removers such as barium sulfide or calcium thioglycollate can be effective since they
produce blunt tipped hairs and do not cut the hair beneath the skin surface.
Chemical hair removers should not be used more often than every other or even
every third day due to skin irritation. The possibility of skin irritation
increases after prolonged use. Hair removers containing barium sulfide (Magic
Shave) have a strong smell that may be annoying. Chemical hair removers
containing calcium thioglycollate (Surgex cream) are less annoying and are
usually the least irritating to the skin. After using a chemical hair remover,
the face should be washed thoroughly, and over-the-counter corticosteroid
lotion may be applied to soothe the skin.
4. Manual razors may be
used in mild cases of pseudofolliculitis barbae. It is important not to pull
the skin taut and not to shave against the grain. It is important to use a
sharp razor each time you shave. Special razors are available, such as The Bump
Fighter by Aveeno, that avoid shaving too close. Ask
your pharmacist for this.
In addition to the methods
mentioned above, extra steps can be taken to assist in the control of
pseudofolliculitis barbae. Freeing of hairs embedded in the skin with a needle
as mentioned above is important and should be done before any of the above
shaving techniques. Rubbing the beard area in a circular pattern with a coarse
sponge, a brush, or a rough washcloth may help dislodge embedded hair. This
should be done before shaving and four or five more times throughout the day.
Use of topical antibiotics, such as Cleocin T, or low-dose systemic antibiotics
may help limit the inflammatory process. 3% benzoyl peroxide gel after shaving
and 2.5% hydrocortisone lotion at night may be helpful in mild cases. Another
treatment that may help is daily use of Retin-A 0.05%. Retin-A or Tazorac may
allow buried hairs to be freed, and may toughen the skin. Successful management
of pseudofolliculitis barbae depends largely on the patient's motivation. The
most effective treatment is to quit shaving but this is not always possible or
practical. The best therapeutic approach must be individualized to the patient
and it may take several months to determine which combination of methods is
best.